D11: English Coastal Path


Saturday 22nd July 2018

Today miles: 17.4        Total miles: 150.2

I arrived in Seahouses following the 50 minute bus journey to the start of today and began walking around 9.15am. Alfie had appeared disappointed this morning when I informed him he wouldn’t be joining me today. It’s going to be a long day and I think it might be a little beyond his capabilities in this hot weather. Within minutes of leaving Seahouses I was crossing yet another golf course. The official Northumberland Coastal path moves South alongside the edge of the B1340 but I decided to stick to the beach as it would be a lot easier on my feet. It’s the first official day of the English school summer holidays and its extremely busy on the beach. Lots of children and dogs running around and I realised this would probably be the same for the whole of today.

Seahouses Harbour

At Beadnell I left the beach for a while and found myself a nice wooden seat overlooking the sea, intending to sit for a while and just enjoy the sun on my face and eat a snack bar. Unfortunately a large swarm of black unrecognisable flying insects decided they liked my bright lime green T-shirt and they set about harassing me. Less then 2 minutes after sitting down I was on the move again. Back on the beach towards Newton-by-the-Sea I spotted a warning notice informing me of the closure of the beach due to the nesting ground birds. I duly returned to the dunes and then crossed the skinny wooden bridge to Newton Links. I’d been walking for a while so took a deserved break close to the old MOD buildings and radio transmitter. I know there’s a wonderful small pub only five minutes away, located right on the coast, however the ‘Ship Inn’ at Newton will be packed today and I don’t really fancy waiting in a queue to be served. There was a slight breeze which helped keep the insects away whilst I lay on the grass for a while. As I passed the pub I could see that it was indeed very busy and was pleased to leave it for another day. I walked through the dozens of small wooden huts dotted across the dunes, crossed Embleton golf club and could see Dunstanburgh Castle in the distance ahead of me. I’ve visited this castle dozens of times over the last 20 years so when I arrived at the old building I didn’t stop to look around but just carried on straight to Craster.

In Craster I decided to drop in on the ‘Jolly Fisherman for a rest and a pint. As anticipated it was busy but I had no problems getting served and then finding myself a seat  I contacted Gemma not long after leaving Craster and arranged to be picked up at Alnmouth. The walk now takes me over the cliffs at Cullernose Point and then onto Sugar Sands before arriving at the beach in Boulmer.

The heat was starting to bother me and my pace was a little slower then normal. I briefly visited the public toilets in Boulmer in order to fill up my water bottles. It’s only another 3 miles to Alnmouth and I knew from experience I could stick to the beach all the way. Knowing this I took off my boots and slowly strolled along the edge of the cool water. It was soooo nice. An hour later I arrived in Alnmouth and we enjoyed a quick alcoholic drink before heading home. That’s probably more then 20 times I’ve walked along that particular stretch of the Northumberland coastline and I’ve no doubt that I’ll be back again soon.

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