D193: TUDWEILIOG to TREFOR
Thursday 2nd October 2025
Today miles: 19.4 Total miles: 3176.9
I had an awful sleep, nothing to do with the high winds which never actually materialised but everything to do with a hundred noisy female cows in a nearby farm building attempting to attract the attention of a bull in an adjacent field. The beasts were persistent and didn’t let up all night. I woke early, feeling tired and grumpy and then packed up as quickly as I could. Unfortunately the little shop was closed and I was back on the path, caffeine deprived, within a few minutes. I quickly recovered my mojo and the mood improved as I walked along the easy, flat and grassy path. I had managed to walk almost four miles in the first hour and decided I needed to slow down or risk getting injured. There’s a relatively short one kilometre long spit of land just North of Morfa Nefyn which reaches out into the Irish Sea. The land is owned and managed by the National Trust and there’s a tiny village of about a dozen buildings named Porth Dinllaen, which is really picturesque. The village does have a pub and a cafe but it’s still early and both are unfortunately closed. I did stop though and enjoyed the view for a while.
There’s two formal routes towards Morfa Nefyn, a lower route along the beach and a higher route along the pedestrian path/promenade. By now I was needing to make use of any available toilet facilities and decided to stick to the high route and try my luck at the golf club. There’s a wire mesh fence separating the path from the golf course but I managed to find a friendly golfer who gave me the access codes to get through the fence and also enter the clubhouse and changing rooms.
Much relieved, I carried on. The Wales/Lynn coast path doesn’t pass through Morfa Nefyn but instead it sticks close to the beach. It’s now beyond 9am and I managed to find an open cafe and more toilet facilities. I grabbed myself a coffee and ate the remains of the pastie and carrot cake that I had picked up last night.
A mile further along the coast is Nefyn, it was from here that I caught my first sight of Yr Eifl a massif protruding more than 550mts above sea level. It looked high and a little scary. There’s a short road walk out of Nefyn before the route turns back onto grassy fields. There’s a long steady climb towards the disused quarry at Porth Howel and then a further climb and a long descent to Porth Nant and the visitors centre. I encountered a small herd of goats close to the path, they didn’t appear bothered by my presence. On arriving at the visitors centre I was pleasantly surprised at how good the facilities were. There’s a modern style cafe/bar and after ordering myself a coffee I spread out my wet tent on the grass and stared at the hill in front of me.
Before carrying on I contacted a campsite just beyond Trefor. It wasn’t open but the owner did give me the telephone number of her daughter who also ran a campsite near the same town. A few minutes later and I’m booked into the Gyrn Ddu campsite. The forecast for later today is heavy rain and high wind and I need to find somewhere reasonably sheltered. The path up towards Ye Eifl was steep but enjoyable with great views all around. The official path skirts around the hill at around 370mts and it’s easily the highest point on the Wales Coastal Path. I could see dark clouds gathering so I didn’t linger long.
At Trefor I paused briefly to pick up something hot for dinner and then pressed on along the A499 for a further two miles. It began to rain as I arrived at Gyrn Ddu.
The rain increased significantly as I explored the empty campsite for the best location to set up. The owner Denise appeared and we chatted for a while. I voiced my concerns about the weather and she kindly offered the use of her new six berth caravan which was on the site, for no additional cost. There’s no electrics or heating in the caravan but I’m very happy to except her offer.
A good days walking with some great views and dry conditions until the very end.
Werewolfandflump UK Coast Path 