D189: PENRHYNDEUDRAETH to PWLLHELI
Saturday 28th September 2025
Today miles: 15.5 Total miles: 3102.4
I caught the first train back to the place with the unpronounceable name. The weather was set to be fair and it should be a good but relatively short day. I slept really well last night, the alcohol probably helped. I started walking from the train station and immediately I’m crossing the rivers, Afon Dwyryd and then Afon Glaslyn using railway bridges. As I crossed the second of these bridges there’s an old steam engine running along the tracks, very Harry Potteresk. The route then leaves the pavement and took me onto to a nice flat gravel track which runs alongside the edge of the water. The path runs adjacent to several large industrial units and caravan parks but these are well hidden behind the dense hedge row and hundreds of trees.
After crossing Porthmadog Golf course I took to the dunes which run adjacent with Black Rock Sands beach. I was strolling along, listening to my favourite tunes when I spotted a large group of ramblers (around thirty people) who were standing on the narrow path taking a break. As I approached the group they made absolutely no attempt to move off the path until I was literally on top of them. I’ve seen several incidents of poor behaviour on the footpath over the years and this was another example. It’s a great, slightly undulating path and there’s some special views along the rugged coastline.
The beach at Rock Sands is easy going firm sand, the only hazard to avoid were the hundreds of huge jellyfish spread across the entire area. Eventually I arrived in Criccieth and had my first short break. Beyond Criccieth the route continued along the edge of the coastline and reaches the edge of Afon Dwyfor before heading inland along the river. After roughly a kilometre the route arrived at the small town of Llanystumdwy. The final five miles is now along the A497. It’s a busy road which is around half a mile from the coast. It does have a pavement running along the entire length. I found the hard cement surface was taking a toll on the soles of my feet and stopped for a short break every couple of miles. The A road leads me directly to the entrance of Hafen y Mor Holiday park. I had already decided to leave the road shortly before the park entrance in order that tomorrow I could continue along the official Welsh/Llyn coastal path.
I arrived back to my accommodation around dinner time and dropped into the pub for a quick pint before returning to the chalet, eating a hot meal and getting myself cleaned up. A fairly easy day in perfect weather conditions.
Werewolfandflump UK Coast Path 