D187: TYWYN to LLANABER
Thursday 25th September 2025
Today miles: 17.5 Total miles: 3067.6
I left the campsite early and after a quick visit to the toilet block I was off again. I retraced last nights route back to the coastal path and arrived on an almost deserted promenade. After a mile the route crosses the railway tracks and then continues to run alongside the tracks for the next four miles. There’s a couple of narrow rivers to cross and I stopped close to the Dysynni foot bridge for a short break. There was a beautiful heron stood in the slow flowing water and we glared at each other for a while, unfortunately my phones camera couldn’t zoom in enough to get a decent photo. Shortly after setting off again, near Tonfanau Farm, I left the train tracks behind and walked along a series of minor roads. There’s several small hills on the coastal path but the official path winds its way along the road around the base of these hills. It’s a hot day and I stopped often to take a drink.
The route joined a road adjacent to the railway line, just slightly further inland and overlooking the tracks. There’s no pavement and a small stone wall along the edge. It reminded me of the roads in the Lake District and it’s one of the most dangerous stretches of path that I’ve experienced in several years. I was forced to lean into the hedgerow on dozens of occasions. The route climbed gently and eventually there’s a stunning view out towards
Barmouth. There’s hundreds of motor homes moving along the road towards the small town of Fairbourne. For anybody who’s watched the recent Sky series ‘Under Salt Marsh’ they might recognise Fairbourne and Barmouth. Both towns were the primary filming locations for the crime series starring Kelly Reilly. That might explain the high number of tourists. I walked along the concrete promenade lined with large sea defence blocks before I dropped into a small store and a cafe for an extended break.
After another two miles the route runs across Fairbourne golf course before cutting inland towards Barmouth Bridge. It’s a nice, flat path with more great views. On arriving in Barmouth I took another break and took my time walking around the harbour area. I also stopped at a local cafe and grabbed some hot food and a fizzy drink. On leaving Barmouth I decided to walk along the sandy beach. I was disappointed to encounter a number of boarded up buildings and old homes along the way. At Llanaber I used the old railway bridge to cross the tracks and then walked along the A496 for a further mile.
I had planned on wild camping but chanced upon Transdir touring and camping site. The site looked immaculate and I was able to book into the site without any problems. A good days walking despite the sketchy road walking.
Werewolfandflump UK Coast Path 