Day 109: English Coastal Path

D109: TOTNES to SLAPTON SANDS

Monday 25th September 2023

Today miles: 20.8 Total miles: 1842.3

I’m not sure how much sleep I got last night, it wasn’t very much. The rain stopped around four this morning and it was a small blessing that I managed to pack up in misty, but dry conditions. I parked up in Totnes, walked the short distance towards the town centre and then crossed the old stone bridge over the River Dart. Although it wasn’t raining I was still wearing my waterproof trousers, due to the thick vegetation on the path being covered with rain drops. Sadly, the trousers didn’t stop my shoes from getting a proper soaking. There’s a short but steep climb up towards the little village of Ashprington and despite still being early in the day I was really struggling to raise the necessary energy levels. After Ashprington there’s a mix of road and trail walking for the next two miles towards Cornworthy. The hedgerows along the roads here are huge, probably about three metres high. About half a mile from Cornworthy I was lazily pulling at the vegetation in the hedgerow as I walked along and somehow I managed to slice my finger open. The blood was dripping from the cut and it kept on doing so all the way to Cornworthy.

There’s a small shop/cafe/pub combo in Cornworthy and at this point I was just grateful for somewhere to sit down and sort out my bleeding finger. After purchasing some additional plasters and a glass of coke I sat down in the pub section and rested for a while. My next destination was Dartmouth where I intended to grab some hot food, dry out my wet gear and rest my feet for a few hours. Before reaching Dartmouth I passed through several more small villages, including Dittisham where I popped into a shop and took another short break in a nearby bus stop.
My first intention when I arrived in Dartmouth was to find the nearest fish shop and grab a huge portion of fish and chips. After ordering my food I went to pay with my bank card which is kept in my mobile phone case. I couldn’t find my phone and panicking I ran out of the shop and scurried along the road trying desperately to find my phone. I dreaded the thought of having to backtrack two miles to the bus stop in Dittisham. Suddenly, I remembered that I had put the phone into my rucksack earlier and after recovering the phone and the bank card I returned to the chip shop, still very hungry and a little bit embarrassed.

Dartmouth was very busy but I still managed to locate a spare bench overlooking the replica 17th century Spanish galleon which had arrived only a few days earlier. It’s called ‘El Galeon Andalucia’ and it’s an impressive looking ship. After spreading out all of my camping gear in the sun, I was finally able to tuck into my hot food.

I finally motivated myself enough to get going again about two hours later and packed up the now dry tent and sleeping bag. As you’d expect there’s plenty of old Royal Navy artefacts along the route. The path had several short up and downs as it winds its way towards Warfleet and then further forwards to Slapton. It’s now about 5.20pm and I was still about two miles from Slapton Sands and my campsite for tonight. I finally arrived just before reception closed at 6pm. The staff were so helpful and I even got a discount (cost £8.50). Unlike some of the other campsites I’d experienced recently the facilities here were brilliant and another guest in her camper van even gave me some washing powder so I could clean all my clothes. A great day finished off with an even better night.

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