Day 112: English Coastal Path

D112: SALCOMBE to BIGBURY-ON-SEA

Thursday 28th September 2023

Today miles: 19.9 Total miles: 1890.7

I arrived back at Salcombe fully refreshed after a good sleep and having eaten plenty of good food. The weather forecast predicts more heavy rain around 4pm. That should give me around eight hours to walk the nineteen miles and reach The Mount Folly campsite. It didn’t take me long to leave Salcombe behind and I walked past a couple of small beaches occupied by a number of plucky surf boarders. There’s a very steep but short ascent up to Starehole Bay where the views quickly improved. I love these rock formations and don’t recall seeing them previously anywhere on the English Coastal Path other than in Devon and Cornwall.
The next four miles between Bolt Head and Bolt Tail were decent enough with several secluded small bays along the route. I caught up with another walker and we then walked together for a few minutes. He’s originally from Scotland but now retired, now lives in Cornwall. He told me that he’s walked a circular route between the two Bolts regularly for the last two years and still loves the route.

On arrival at Bolt Tail I got my first view of Burgh Island. This tiny tidal island lies about half way across Bigbury Bay and a couple of hundred metres, across the beach from Bigbury-on-Sea. From Bolt Tail the trail descends towards Outer Hope and I’m walking at close to sea level for a while. I grabbed a hot drink and something to eat before heading towards Thurlstone skirting across the edge of the golf course. The ferry crossing the River Avon is based at Bantham, I didn’t see the actual vessel but don’t imagine it’s very big. The tide was out and I would estimate the river in small sections was no more than ten metres wide. For the first half mile along the rivers edge I was continually looking out to see if there was a possibility of crossing on foot but the fast flowing water looked far too dangerous to risk. The walk along the Southern edge of the river (along Avon Estuary Walk) was pleasant and I arrived at Aveton Gifford in good spirits. The first half mile along the Northern edge of the estuary is along a small tarmac road which is liable to flooding and impassable during high tide. Thankfully the tide was still out.

I bumped into a group of fellow Geordi’s whilst having another short break at Milburn Orchard and we chatted for a while. I could see some dark clouds gathering overhead and hoped the rain would hold off as I’m still three miles from shelter. Minutes later it began to rain, lightly at first but then heavy enough for me to don my waterproof trousers and jacket. Unfortunately whilst unpacking my waterproofs I’d placed my walking pole against a nearby tree and then carried on walking, leaving the pole behind. I was a further half mile down the path before I realised my mistake. Walking an additional mile in this weather was the last thing I wanted, but I’m not leaving my expensive walking pole behind. After recovering the pole I retraced my route. Soon after I came across a newly built barn where I sheltered from the rain, hoping the owner wouldn’t show up. The last mile towards Bigbury was horrendous, heavy rain and low cloud combining to make this a real miserable slog.

The campsite at Folly Mount has an old but large toilet/shower block and it was a relief to finally reach the warm and dry building. As I was removing my wet clothing a man entered and we got too talking. He was staying in a campervan with his wife and I was so grateful for the hot coffee and snacks that he brought over a few minutes later. Eventually the rain eased off a little and I was able to pitch my tent. I spent most of the evening sat in the toilet block eating my tea and watching Netflix on my iPad.
This was a fairly good day which was only ruined by the earlier than expected rain. I’m hoping that some of my clothes that I left hanging in the campsite building will dry out overnight but I’ll be putting on wet shoes again tomorrow.