D106: DAWLISH to TORQUAY
Friday 22nd September 2023
Today miles: 17.5 Total miles: 1789.3
After parking in the multi storey car park in Torquay, I worked my way back to Dawlish train station and began walking again around 9am. I’d already been warned, by the hotel receptionist, that today was going to be a tough day, with lots of climbing and descending. Heeding this advice I took my time trying to pace myself for the long day ahead. After an initial short walk along the concrete walkway there’s the first steep climb. The route, which follows the Teignmouth and Dawlish Way (TDW) was unfortunately fenced off and I had to backtrack slightly and take to walking along the A379 for the first two miles. I finally got back onto the SWCP after Holcombe and there’s a great promenade which took me all the way to Teignmouth. I walked around the mouth of the River Teign passing the Lifeboat station and the Marina. The footpath, as marked on my map should have taken me between the edge of the river Teign and the railway line, all the way to the Teignmouth and onto Shaldon Bridge. I followed the right of way until I came to an old wooden bridge and then the route just simply disappeared into the water. I stood there for a while with hands on hips, pondering. It didn’t look too deep so I removed my shoes and socks and began to carefully wade through the water. I managed reasonably well until the route diverted to the right, through a small arch in the wall and under the railway line. The water running through the arch looked to be around 3ft deep and so I’m forced to retrace my steps all the way back to the bridge.
The additional mile I’d walked hadn’t spoilt my good mood and I continued back over the old bridge and picked up a new path, slightly further inland, The Templer Way. After quickly passing through the town of Shaldon there was another steep but short climb up towards an area known as ‘The Ness’. There’s some nice views out across the bay so a perfect spot for a long and deserved break. The walk across the cliff top was pleasant and a moderate breeze helped to keep the heat tolerable. There’s several ups and downs but the path is dry and there’s no difficulties. I passed a couple perhaps in their 60’s halfway up one particularly steep ascent. The man in front followed by his wife who was red faced and breathing heavily. As I passed, I asked her (sarcastically) if she was enjoying her walk. She smiled and we both stopped and had a brief chat about our respective routes ahead and the joys of going uphill. Although I’m walking fairly close to the outskirts of Torquay I can only see trees and it’s quiet except for the sound of the waves below and the birds singing above me.
I had reached St Marychurch a small ward on the east of Torquay and was surprised when I cam across the Cliff Railway running between the beach and the cliff top. The route of the SWCP runs under the tracks and there’s an iron gate on each side for access. Once I’d reached the far side I stood and waved at the people inside of the car for a few minutes. As I reached the tip of Torquay, at Hopes Nose I could now clearly see the many small islands across Tor Bay. A little further along the path was Thatcher Point where there’s a wooden bench looking out across the bay. I stopped a while and admired the many small islands, including Thatcher Rock, Ore Stone and Flat Rock. It’s a great view and was fortunate enough to see it on a blue sky day. The next two miles towards Torquay were a combination of minor roads and more dry paths until I reached the New Harbour area.
At New Marina there’s hundreds of boats/yachts of various sizes. There’s also hundreds of people around wearing their finest going out clothes and I felt completely out of place amongst the suits. I almost ran through the crowds and was relieved to finally have reached my hotel, which was only minutes away.
I’m looking forwards to a hot meal and a warm bed, but before that I have to take care of chores, which includes washing my smalls in the tiny bathroom sink. Another tough day and feet and legs are feeling a little sore. I’ve developed a small blister on the top of my right little toe which I’ll take care of tonight.
Werewolfandflump UK Coast Path 