D104: SIDMOUTH to EXMOUTH
Wednesday 24th May 2023
Today miles: 18.1 Total miles: 1753.9
Thankfully I didn’t encounter any snakes during the night and I woke this morning for the final day of walking, for this particular trip. It’s a steep ascent up to Dunscombe Cliffs and then an even steeper descent and ascent up and down Salcombe Mouth. It’s probably the steepest climb of the last two weeks and I appreciated the opportunity to sit down and catch my breath at the top of the hill. At Sidmouth I walked into the town to grab myself a coffee and a few bits and pieces to eat later, before continuing. I got some really weird looks from several elderly Sidmouth residents whilst in Costa.
There’s no drama’s between Sidmouth and Ladram Bay Holiday Park, just more fantastic views, mixed between the ascents and descents. The next two miles between Ladram Bay and Otter Estuary was flatter with sheer cliffs on my left, huge fields of grain to my right and unspoiled blue skies over my head.
I arrived on the Eastern edge of Otter Estuary Nature Reserve and there’s a nice stone path along the edge of River Otter. Shortly after crossing the river I arrived at crowded Budleigh Salterton. I liked Budleigh. There’s some nice, small shops and cafes along the sea front, intermingled with the beach huts of course. Sat down inside one of the shaded shelters along the promenade for about an hour, then moved off towards Exmouth, via Straight Point. As I began the ascent up Cliff Path I could already hear the almost constant firing coming from Straight Point Naval firing range. Later, as I approached the range I could suddenly see the ant like figures blasting away at their targets. Later when I passed the entrance to the range I encountered two Royal Marines. We chatted for a bit and they happily filled up my water bottle. They just looked so, so young. I thanked them for their service and then carried on walking.
A mile later and I’m on the Eastern side of the River Exe on Queens Drive. There’s a nice wide promenade all the way to Exmouth and it’s extremely busy. Nothing too exciting happened apart from seeing a huge seagull snatching an expensive looking ice cream from a woman’s hands. I passed the ferry terminal (the official route of the SWCP) to Starcross where a member of ferry staff smiled as I approached, clearly expecting a new, paying passenger. We smiled and wished each other a nice day as I walked by. The only thing left now is to walk the mile towards Exmouth train station and find my way back towards Wareham where I left my car.
It’s been a fun few days, with lots of ups and downs, literally. I’m really looking forwards to returning in September, fingers crossed that the weather is still decent.
Werewolfandflump UK Coast Path 