D103: LYME REGIS to SIDMOUTH
Tuesday 23rd May 2023
Today miles: 14.1 Total miles: 1735.8
The open top bus journey back to Weymouth last night was enjoyable but the return trip to Lyme Regis this morning seemed to take forever, I was pleased to be finally getting off the bus and to be actually walking.
Soon after leaving the busy Lyme Regis streets behind there’s a steep step ascent up onto Ware Cliffs. I then entered a narrow wooded area and followed a nice path through the trees. The three and a half miles through Ware Cliffs, Pinhay Cliffs and then Bindon Cliffs was really pleasant. The cool shadows under the trees was a relief from the hot sun that I’d experienced over the last few days.
I’d bumped into dozens of people over the last couple of hours and had also taken several short breaks on the wooden seats that are placed randomly along the route. At Culverhole Point I eventually emerged from the green tunnel and descended down and slightly inland towards Axmouth. Here the SWCP meets up with the Monmouth Rebellion Walk. There’s the usual hoards of people and line of beach huts on the seafront at Seaton Beach. At the end of Seaton Beach I fancied another (more) extended break but wasn’t sure where to stop. There’s a pub and a cafe at the end of the beach and I stood there staring at them both for what seemed an eternity, not being sure where I fancied resting my feet. In the end I opted for a pint of Guinness at the pub, followed up by a takeaway coffee from the cafe. I checked the map before moving off towards Beer (it’s a small town and not another pint, honest). I wasn’t sure where to wild camp tonight and I couldn’t see anything immediately suitable. The walking from Beer to Beer Head was easy enough and I just skirted along the fence line for the next two miles.
I stopped somewhere close to Cox’s Cliffs having found a great place to pitch my tent and happy that I’d not be interrupted. I was just settling down and boiling myself some water when two cars pulled into a nearby pasture and several men climbed out. I think they were heading to the beach to fish but their presence was enough to make me move off again.
After another mile and a fairly steep descent I arrived in Weston Mouth and found a flat piece of ground close to the beach. There was already another tent erected and I later chatted to the two occupants. They warned me to be on the lookout for snakes nearby, apparently they had already encountered them. Just before settling down for the night I sat in my tent watching the sun go down, nervously looking around me every time I heard a noise in the vegetation. Another great day, I particularly enjoyed walking through the green tunnel.
Werewolfandflump UK Coast Path 