D177: ST DAVIDS to ABEREIDDY
Saturday 13th September 2025
Today miles: 13.4 Total miles: 2905.6
Today was literally the calm before the impending storm. Despite the foreboding weather I left the campsite to almost perfect conditions. The wind had died to almost nothing and the clouds would disperse throughout the day before the bad weather returns in the evening. I crossed the River Alun via a solid stone bridge and climbed onto the hilltop. I then got my first proper view of Ramsey Island and I also spotted a line of several black buoys in the bay and wondered what they signified, I’d see several more rows of these throughout today and I’m still not sure what they mean. The route is rugged with many rocky outcrops and small bays. Passing one of these bays at Porthstinian I heard what I thought was a seagull. As I looked down the cliff into the bay I saw the first seal pup of this particular trip. I would see and hear many, many more over the next three weeks. Minutes later I arrived at the RNLI station (St David’s) at Porthstinian. I had a short break and ate half of my chicken tikka baguette.
I was really enjoying the route and the scenery and I arrived at White Sands Bay where there was an open cafe feeling pleased with the day so far. I chilled out with a coffee near the visitors centre for an hour. I watched as the car park filled up and dozens of people arrived, changed into their walking boots and make off towards St David’s Head. The terrain towards St David’s Head was different to anything I’d seen before on the coast and it reminded me of the Cairngorms in Scotland. As usual the crowds began to dwindle as I left the car park behind and by the time I had reached the foot of Carn Llidl I was on my own once again. For the next four miles I passed two or three of these relatively high carns hoping and praying that I would be going around and not over each one. At the midway point up Carn Penberry I met a spread out group of about twenty men doing a charity walk for Alzheimer’s Society. I chatted with the quicker sub group as they waited for the stragglers to catch up.
As I descended the shoulder of Carn Penberry I saw another walker with a large backpack a few minutes in front of me. I caught up with him twenty minutes later as he took a quick break. His name was John and I’d bump into him several times over the next three days. He informed me that he was booked into the bunkhouse at Celtic camping which is the same place that I’m due to pitch my tent. Just before reaching Celtic camping there’s a short descent down to a small bay (Aber-Pwll) and a sign had warned me about the seal pup on the upcoming beach. The short wooden bridge over the stream at Aber-Pwll comes within a few feet of the seal pup and its mother.
Fortunately, the bunkhouse at Celtic camping has ample space for me. I ended up in an eight bed room by myself. I was able to spread out my wet kit, have a hot shower and prepare a hot meal. I heard the wind pick up and rain fall during the night, relieved I’m not out there crying in my tent.
Werewolfandflump UK Coast Path 