D164: Wales Coastal Path

Day 164: LLANMADOC to GOWERTON

Sunday 8th June 2025

Today miles: 18.3 Total miles: 2699.3

I’ve pre booked some accommodation in Llanelli for tonight but it’s around thirty miles away and I’m not sure if I’m currently up for walking that sort of distance just yet. If I can get as far as Gowerton later today then I’ve the option to catch either the bus or a train to my accommodation in Llanelli. I had my usual coffee before setting off around 6am and continued through the sand dunes adjacent to Broughton Bay. The path then runs across the beach at Whiteford Sands for around two miles. There’s a strange small jumping insect on the beach and every step I take is accompanied by hundreds of these creatures scattering in my wake. I reached the end of the beach and climbed back into the dunes before entering a dense pine forest. As I looked out into Loughor Estuary I spotted the Whiteford Point lighthouse, a cast iron decommissioned monument. It’s the only cast iron lighthouse in the UK that’s still standing, despite almost two hundred years of battering by salt water. There’s an area across Landimore Marsh known as ‘The Groose’ and the Wales Coastal Path officially crosses a sea defence wall near here. Unfortunately a section of the wall collapsed several years ago but there’s a good, short diversion in place.

When I arrived at the opposite side of the estuary I took my first refreshment break in a nice location with great views. The next half mile through the forest was slow going due to dozens of blow downs across the path. The path then skirts along the edge of Landimore Marsh and I had hundreds of sheep and dozens of horses for company. Four miles later I arrived in Llarnhidian and it’s close to lunch time. Unfortunately the two pubs in town don’t open until much later. As I passed by ‘The Dolphin Inn’ I encountered the owner and her husband and despite not being officially open they invited me inside. They were fantastic people and provided me with free coffee, cakes and conversation. I exited town and then encountered another local resident. This one was less friendly and during the next two miles he passed me at high speed several times on his very loud scrambler motorbike. The coastal path between Llanhidian and Crofty is along a single carriageway adjacent to the marshland before it then skirts around Crofty and continues to Pen-Clawdd.

I had made really good progress and after a further three miles along the carriageway I arrived on the outskirts of Gowerton. I chanced across a Police community support officer and he gave me directions to the train station. The train only took around ten minutes to get into Llanelli and I arrived at my accommodation around 5pm. I was booked into the World Horizons Y Doc hostel and like a lot of independent hostels you’re never sure of what you’ll get until you arrive. I used the key code to gain access to what looked like a warehouse on an industrial estate and then entered the main living room which was huge, with around eight sofas placed around the room. I spoke briefly to a couple who said I could help myself to coffee in the kitchen. I entered my room which was one of about ten in the entire building and found I was the only person occupying a bed. Later after I showered I had another look around and quickly realised that I’m the only person staying in the whole building tonight. It was weird being alone in such a large building.