D147: ILFRACOMBE to LYNTON
Monday 23rd September 2024
Today miles: 19.1 Total miles: 2412.3
Yesterday was a day off and I spent several hours eating too much rubbish food and pondering over my plans for the next three days. There’s very little (affordable) accommodation and even less options for public transport over the next fifty or so miles. I wanted to give a shout out to The Dilkhusa Grand Hotel. It’s definitely not the most glamorous hotel in England but the staff were super friendly and helpful. The room itself was basic, clean and quiet, just like me. I left Ilfracombe and soon after rejoining the coastal path I was walking around Capstone Hill. There’s a low route and a high route but I took the low route, not because I was being lazy but because it’s actually closer to the coast. I then wound my way around the marina passing a piece of 20m high Anthony Gormley artwork. It’s a bronze statue of a heavily pregnant woman which is cut away on one side to reveal muscle, bone and the unborn foetus. It’s called Verity, it seems to be controversial and it draws in lots of tourists to Ilfracombe. Unlike many others I didn’t linger long at the marina but instead climbed out of town and up towards Hillsborough Fort. The A399 runs parallel with the coastal path for the next two miles and the route stitched back and forth between the road and an actual dirt path. The path around Widnouth Head where I could observe the sea caves was particularly nice.
I was pleasantly surprised when I arrived at Combe Martin. There’s lots of options for food and a decent looking high street. Originally I considered ending my walk here. There’s a limited service bus due soon which could take me to my booked accommodation in Lynton, however getting back to Combe Martin tomorrow morning would be difficult. The alternative is to walk an additional thirteen miles today, with the risk of walking the last few miles through the Valley of Rocks in the dark. I’ve got around five hours of daylight to walk the additional miles. After wandering undecided around Combe Martin for half an hour I finally made up my mind and set off for Lynton. As I left Lynton and descended Cliff Ryl I looked up to the sky and noticed that grey clouds were building. I was moving along at well over three miles an hour and my legs were feeling okay with that pace. Sadly, the good weather and views finally disappeared as I approached Holdstone Hill. It was a little scary, I now couldn’t see more than a few metres ahead of me, the path was uneven in long sections and getting much more slippery in the rain. Despite the poor conditions I still continued to maintain a great pace and arrived at Heddon Cleave. There’s an option of shelter at a hotel, The Hunters inn, a quarter of a mile up the road but sadly I don’t have the time to divert. I just carried on walking, hoping that the rain would stop.
The rain finally stopped as I approached pretty Woody Bay. As I entered Woodybay Wood I did something that I’ve done before hundred of times, without any issues, all over the UK and Europe. I didn’t know it yet but in 36 hours I’d definitely regret this mundane decision. There’s a dryish bench overlooking Woody Bay and because the cloud had cleared away I decided to take a short break and enjoyed the views across the bay. Shortly after restarting, the route joins a minor road and I arrived at the Valley of the Rocks around 5pm, just as the sun began to descend. The valley was deserted but I was just pleased that the weather had hugely improved and I got to see the impressive rock formations. There was a herd of around twenty wild goats under one particular outcrop.
The coastal path back towards Lynton skirts around the edge of the hill before crossing under the Cliff Railway and then climbing up towards the town centre. I dropped into the small grocery store and ten minutes later when I exited the shop I saw that it was now dark outside. It’s my second of three nights staying at the Valley of the Rocks hotel.
Werewolfandflump UK Coast Path 