D142: BUDE to ELMSCOTT (YH)
Tuesday 17th September 2024
Today miles: 12.2 Total miles: 2326.6
After an excellent rest day I left Bude around 7.30am. I grabbed myself something for breakfast before setting off, thankfully the rain which had fallen for almost two days had also finally stopped and the sun finally reappeared. There’s a large outdoor swimming pool on the edge of Bude and I had seriously considered going for a quick dip. The water looked very dark, very cold and there was nobody else in the water. I chickened out and just carried on walking. The first two miles were relatively flat but then it got steep, very steep. Whoever is responsible for maintaining the path had built a set of wooden steps and these helped with the sharp descent. I had initially spotted the huge satellite dishes at Coombe on the way into Bude on Sunday afternoon and now I was close enough to almost touch them.
The twenty one satellite receivers actually belong to the UK Government under the control of GCHQ and it’s a top, top secret base. I took several photos and wouldn’t have been surprised if armed guards had confronted me. They didn’t.
I took several long breaks over the next five miles, the descents and ascents were brutal and I needed to catch my breath at the top of each hill. Half way up one of these hills I had a telephone call from Elmscott youth hostel and we confirmed my bed for tonight. Near to Welcombe I visited ‘The Hermitage’ which is located on the side of Knap Head Hill. It’s a small stone building with a huge viewing window looking out over Welcombe Bay. The hut once belonged to and was regularly visited by the Poet and Playwright Ronald Duncan. He wrote lots of famous pieces of work, that I’ve never heard of. The hut was open to visitors so I took the opportunity and sat in the building for a few minutes.
Despite being a relatively short day my legs and feet were feeling sore. The last two miles despite being flat and easy going were a bit of a struggle and I was pleased to finally reach the point where I could leave the coast. It’s only about a quarter of a mile or five minutes walking to the Youth Hostel. On arrival there’s a short note from the owner on the kitchen table. I’m the only person booked in tonight and I can choose any bed I like. This is becoming a common theme but fortunately I’m okay with my own company.
Werewolfandflump UK Coast Path 