D139: WADEBRIDGE to PORT ISAAC
Friday 13th September 2024
Today miles: 16.1 Total miles: 13.9
The bus driver seemed a little shocked to see somebody waiting at the bus stop this early in the morning. Nobody else joined me on the bus until we got closer to Wadebridge, then dozens of school kids boarded. We then all noisily (not me, obviously) alighted the bus at the stop close to Wadebridge High School. They all then went left as I turned right and then headed towards Bodieve. The first four miles are along several minor roads towards a small village named Rock, situated on the edge of the River Camel. The roads are very quiet and there’s no problems. On arrival at the Southern edge of Rock I crossed Porthilly Cove and then enjoyed a cup of coffee whilst sat looking across the River Camel and even further over towards Padstow on the opposite bank. A few minutes later, after setting off I rejoined the coastal path, flitting between walking along the dunes and the beach.
I walked around the edge of Polzeath without even realising that I was that close to the small town. At Hayle Bay I descended down to New Polzeath and then climbed back up onto the cliffs. I’ve noticed, particularly over the last few days the high number and visibility of the coastguard and lifeguards. They’ve been present on the vast majority of beaches that I’ve crossed and they’re here as expected at Hayle Bay, with their liveried Land Rovers and their bright red and yellow staff uniforms. Somebody has also been using a small remote control car on the end of a rope to make artsy circles in the sand. They looked quite impressive from the cliff top.
There’s several short but steep climbs around the New Polzeath headland and then along Reedy Cliffs, the path is excellent and easy to follow. At Port Quin I took another long break and I think I might of even had forty winks, whilst lying down in the short grass. The small cove located just before Port Isaac is named The Haven and the short section of beach was packed with families and children. There were several kayaks in the water and it looked like everybody was having fun under the blue sky.
For those who don’t know the picturesque Port Isaac was for several hundred years a traditional fishing village but more recently found fame as the location for the television series ‘Doc Martin’ which stars Martin Clunes. It’s also home to the original shanty band ‘Fisherman’s Friends’ who’ve released two albums, appeared at Glastonbury and even had two films made about their story. I walked slowly around the village and then waited for the bus to take me back to Tintagel. The queue waiting for the bus, which is the last of the day leaving Port Isaac was long. There’s a lot of confusion about the direction of this final bus and when it arrived it took the driver several minutes to deal with each enquiry. I just waited until the drama subsided before boarding the bus. The total lack of internet signal in the town didn’t help with the confused situation. I arrived back at Tintagel around 6pm and then enjoyed a nice home made tea at the backpackers.
Dolphin Backpackers is a comfortable but unusual place. The buildings which are situated behind Main Street are (quirky). Tonight, like last night I’m in the ten bed room on my own. I ate my tea and then sat watching the Night Caller on Netflix whilst drinking my last three cans of cider.
Werewolfandflump UK Coast Path 