D135: GWITHIAN to ST AGNES
Monday 9th September 2024
Today miles: 17.4 Total miles: 2223.8
I’ve wrapped up my feet this morning with several plasters and many inches of zinc tape. My previously damaged right ankle has been feeling fine. My boots are still damp from the heavy rain two days ago but getting drier each day. In order to get back to the coast path I walk half a mile along Churchtown Road, before crossing St Gothian Sands and then climbing up onto Godrevy Point. It’s a beautiful clear morning and I could see out across St Ives Bay towards Godrevy Island. There’s several small signs spread across the top of Godrevy Cliffs, warning people and any dog owners about the seals on the beach below. I managed to spot two (an adult and her pup) on the beach at Mutton Cove. Despite the previous days exertions my legs were leaving good but the blisters are still niggling. The first couple of miles went by quickly and I took my first break on a wooden bench near to Portreath after around six miles.
Portreath is a pretty little town overlooking Portreath beach. There’s a couple of small shops, a pub/restaurant and a nice cafe. I hadn’t eaten today so decided to pop into the cafe. I had a decent cooked breakfast and a large americano. The staff were fantastic, the only negative was that I was put in a corner and the staff kept forgetting about me as if I was invisible. This meant I spent forty minutes waiting for my food. It was a positive experience overall. After walking around the small bay I ascended the cliffs again and walked along the edge of the now disused Portreath airport. Formerly this was RAF Portreath and was part of fighter command at the beginning of the Second World War, it’s currently used as an Air Defense Radar base. I saw a small herd of feral horses on a piece of land beneath me as I walked along near Sally’s Bottom (check on a map, this comedy name will make sense). I was surprised that they had ran off despite me being a fair distance away. A few minutes later I saw the same herd standing on the path, they seemed to be waiting for me to say hello and pat them. They were very friendly and I spent a few minutes talking to them and feeding them with grass.
There are more steep climbs to negotiate, it’s quite exciting when I arrive at each bay or Porth. You never know what you’re going to get at the bottom of each hill. Some of these bays have very few facilities and others have lots. This area also has lots of underground mine workings, as I ascend up from Porthtowan I catch sight of several substantial ruins. The cliffs are also littered with hundreds of open mine shafts, thankfully each one has been safely covered with a metal framework (like a bird cage) preventing people from getting to close to the open hole. There’s a pleasant walk along the side of Chy cliffs until I reach St Agnes Head where I had my final break before heading towards St Agnes and my campsite. I’ve got two further steep climbs to negotiate but both are fairly gradual and present no real problem.
On arrival at Trevallas Manor Farm campsite I had a long conversation with the owner and he gave me some free milk for tomorrow’s breakfast. The facilities are excellent and I managed to use the laundry to clean and then dry my spare clothes. I’d picked up some food earlier to eat for my tea and enjoyed this whilst sitting outside my tent as the sun began to descend.
Werewolfandflump UK Coast Path 