D128: MAWNAN to PORTHKERRIS
Monday 29th April 2024
Today miles: 25.2 Total miles: 2131.5
It was already raining when I woke this morning, so after making myself a quick coffee and a pot of porridge I packed up my wet tent and started heading back towards the coast at Maenporth beach. I had checked the map last night and decided to head towards a small village named Greek, which is located about thirteen miles away at the head of the Helford River. It’s an easy first three miles to Durgan, which is where the ferry crosses over the river. There’s then a minor road which climbs away from the rivers edge and then winds its way around Porthavas Creek. The rain stopped just as I arrived in Porthavas so I took a break and made myself another coffee. A couple of women who were out walking some local trails turned up minutes later. We chatted for a while and I chucked the remains of my sandwich into the water for the ducks who were messing around on the water. The next four hours consisted of walking nine miles along minor roads, with several small hills and persistent rain. It wasn’t particularly pleasant and I was desperate to get to the campsite at Gweek. By the time I made the final descent into Gweek the rain was flowing like a river on both sides of the road. My brand new walking shoes were now well and truly broken in. There’s a small grocery store in Gweek and it’s open for business. I grabbed a few snacks and an energy drink, then sat in a bus stop for an hour trying to dry out a little.
I hadn’t really had an opportunity to do much research on my accommodation at Gweek. It was a certified Green Camping Club site and they wanted £27 for the privilege of camping there. After walking a quarter of a mile to the site I was disappointed by the very basis facilities and the amount of bric-a-brac, including rusting vehicles which was just lying around the site. I was expecting a lot better for such an expensive site. I spent a few minutes trying to find a reception but when I couldn’t locate anybody I annoyingly decided just to turn around and carry on walking. Back at the bus stop I did some further research and the nearest campsite anywhere near the coast is located near Porthkerris, some thirteen miles away. It wasn’t going to be pleasant but I had very little choice. On leaving Gweek I decided to stick to the minor roads rather than risk any wet, slippery footpaths. The first ten miles were unspectacular and nothing of note occurred. I finally reached the South West coastal path again on the outskirts of Helford.
I hadn’t had any opportunity to escape from the rain over the last four hours so was pleased to find a spot amongst the dense trees which was relatively dry and free from the rain. I had a short break and managed to boil some water and drink some hot coffee. A few minutes after restarting I bumped into a couple who were walking the SWCP. They asked about the Ferry crossing to Helford but I really couldn’t be bothered to explain why I hadn’t used the ferry. I just advised that the dock was only a few minutes away. During the next three miles I passed several small hamlets along the coast praying I would find a shelter to temporarily shield me from the rain. I did eventually find an open public toilet at Gillan. Not ideal but like the saying goes, beggars can’t be choosers. Shortly after leaving the toilet block I walked slightly inland and found myself having to cross Gillan Creek (it looked deep and scary) I got some vague advice about safe crossing locations from a nearby fisherman and then just went for it. I didn’t bother removing my shoes, cos they were already soaked. A little later at Nare Point lookout station I caught sight of today’s final destination, the Diving Centre at Porthkerris Cove.
There’s a large toilet and shower block at the dive centre and I sat in there for over an hour, pathetically attempting to dry out my socks using the hand dryers. There’s been persistent rain for most of today but I did manage to find a patch of dry(ish) grass in the corner of a field between two high hedgerows. I threw the tent up in record time and was so pleased to be getting out of my wet gear.
Making my way around Helford River along minor roads was never going to be pleasant. I won’t let one wet day ruin my entire trip and I’m pleased to get another 25 miles under my wet belt.
Werewolfandflump UK Coast Path 