D117: TORPOINT to TREGONHAWKE
Thursday 18th April 2024
Today miles: 16.8 Total miles: 1971.2
The Torpoint chain ferry was busy this morning, with plenty of motorcycles, bicycles and foot passengers all travelling across the Hamoaze, a short stretch of water close to the mouth of the River Tamar. The sun was out and it would continue to shine all day. Unlike yesterday, I really enjoyed today’s walking. I grabbed some snacks in Torpoint before moving off in a Westerly direction towards HMS Raleigh. This is a huge Royal Navy training establishment on the North bank of St Johns Lake. It was first commissioned in 1940 and it took me almost an hour to walk around the 240 acre site. There’s a short cut to get into the village of St John along a minor road, but this particular route is only accessible at low tide and I managed to time it just right. Unfortunately, as I was walking along the road I stepped to the side to allow a car to pass and I ended up with one leg knee deep in grey mud.
I’d have to contend with a dirty/wet left foot and leg for the next few hours. From St John there’s another minor road which runs all the way towards Mount Edgcumbe via the small village of Millbrook. It’s a steep up and down section but the views were pleasant enough and there’s hundreds of newly born lambs in the fields, all running to suckle mum as I approached. I stopped at the pretty Mount Edgcumbe Country Park for an extended break before setting off once again. The park was busy and it was nice to be walking on something other than tarmac for a change.
I’m now back on the South West Coast Path and grateful for the hugely improved views in contrast to the last three days. I picked up something for my tea at Kingsland and then wandered around the town for a while, it was very busy. There’s a steady climb out of Kingsland towards Penlee Point nature reserve and I got my first sighting of Rame Head chapel, which is about an hours walk away. It’s a great walk along firstly Lady Cove and then Lillery’s Cove. There’s a courting couple keeping each other busy at Rame Head Chapel. I sat down in the sun staring out across the English Channel and made myself a cup of coffee. I’ve only got two miles to go to Whitsand Bay Holiday Park, where I’m booked in for tonight.
I received a nice new tent as a Christmas gift and I’ve yet to test it out. It’s a Big Agnes Copperspur UL2 extra long and today was the first time I’d set it up proper. It’s slightly heavier than my previous tent but it’s much more roomy and should be more comfortable.
The route to Whitsand Bay was enjoyable and over too quickly, arriving at the holiday park reception desk around 3pm. The site was quiet, as it’s still very early in the season. I set up the tent and then did some chores before making tea and relaxing for the rest of the night.
Werewolfandflump UK Coast Path 